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Mountaintop Magnificence


In 1332, around the end of the Kamakura period, Ochi Kunizumi is said to have started construction of a great castle on the top of Mt. Takatori in Yamato, modern day Nara prefecture. Understandably, this powerful mountaintop fortress was known as Takatori Castle.

The early years of the following Muromachi period (1336 - 1573), also known as the Nanboku-chō or Northern and Southern Court period, saw many armed conflicts throughout Japan, and the Ochi clan and its castle were undoubtably involved in several of the skirmishes. Nevertheless, the Ochi maintained control of their castle until the end of the Sengoku warring states period.

In 1580, Oda Nobunaga ordered the castle abandoned and later placed his vassal, Tsutsui Junkei, in charge of its refortification. Tsutsui had previously been appointed Lord of Yamato by Nobunaga, and commissioned to build Kōriyama Castle, therefore efforts to restore Takatori Castle may have been less of a priority. After Tsutsui Junkei’s death, his cousin and adopted heir, Tsutsui Sadatsugu, continued work on Takatori until the Tsutsui clan were reassigned to Iga province. Responsibility for rebuilding the castle then fell to Honda Tarozaemon and his son, Toshitomo. The Honda clan were in control of the castle until 1640, when Uemura Iemasa became the new Daimyō . The Uemura clan subsequently ruled until the Meiji Restoration, when the castle was once more ordered decommissioned. The strength that ownership of Takatori castle presented made it dangerously strategic, and therefore a threat to the Meiji government.

Today, the only remaining evidence of Takatori castle’s once great power is visible in the vast stone walls of its keeps and baileys. The sprawling precincts of this castle cover a large area of the mountaintop, and many of the ruins are quite overgrown. However, for those with a keen interest in history, and in particular castles, Takatori Castle is a must see. Along with Bitchu Matsuyama Castle and Iwamura Castle, Takatori is named as one of the Three Great Mountaintop Castles of Japan.

Even for people not so interested in its historic relevance, this area is a beautifully wooded scenic spot, especially in autumn, and at 583.9 meters the air is fresh and invigorating.

Access is via a 40-minute or so hike from Tsubosaka Temple, which itself is reachable by bus from Kintetsu Tsubosakayama station. Alternatively, a taxi to the top of the mountain reduces hiking time considerably.

Photographs by Bryan Baier

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